The Bottom Line

Chemical peels use acids to remove controlled layers of skin, stimulating new cell growth and collagen production. Superficial peels (glycolic, lactic acid) brighten skin and treat mild acne with no downtime. Medium peels (TCA 15-35%) treat wrinkles, pigmentation, and acne scars with 5-7 days of peeling. Deep peels (phenol) provide dramatic results but require significant downtime. Most patients benefit from a series of superficial or medium peels spaced 4-6 weeks apart.

Types of Chemical Peels

Superficial (light) peels:

  • Acids: Glycolic acid (20-50%), lactic acid (20-40%), salicylic acid (20-30%), mandelic acid
  • Depth: Epidermis only (outermost layer)
  • Treats: Dullness, mild acne, uneven tone, fine lines, rough texture
  • Downtime: None to minimal (slight redness for 1-3 days, mild flaking)
  • Frequency: Every 2-4 weeks for a series of 4-6, then monthly maintenance

Medium peels:

  • Acids: TCA (trichloroacetic acid) 15-35%, Jessner's solution, or glycolic 50-70% + TCA combination
  • Depth: Through the epidermis into the upper dermis
  • Treats: Moderate wrinkles, acne scars, melasma, sun damage, significant hyperpigmentation
  • Downtime: 5-7 days of peeling, redness for 1-2 weeks. Social downtime: 7-10 days.
  • Frequency: Every 3-6 months (2-4 treatments typical)

Deep peels:

  • Acids: Phenol (Baker-Gordon formula), high-concentration TCA (>35%)
  • Depth: Into the mid-to-deep dermis
  • Treats: Deep wrinkles, severe sun damage, significant scarring
  • Downtime: 2-3 weeks. Significant peeling, crusting, redness that fades over months.
  • Frequency: Usually a one-time procedure. Requires cardiac monitoring (phenol can affect heart rhythm).

What to Expect

Before: Your dermatologist may prescribe tretinoin and/or hydroquinone for 2-4 weeks before a medium/deep peel to prep the skin and improve results. Stop retinoids 3-5 days before the peel. Disclose all medications — some increase complication risk.

During: The acid is applied and left for a specific time. You'll feel tingling to moderate burning (superficial) or significant stinging (medium). Deep peels may use sedation. The provider neutralizes or removes the acid after the target depth is reached.

After:

  • Superficial: Mild redness, possibly light flaking for 2-3 days. Resume normal activities immediately.
  • Medium: Skin turns white/frosted during treatment, then becomes red and swollen. Peeling begins day 2-3, continues through day 7-10. Keep skin moisturized with petroleum jelly. Avoid picking.
  • Deep: Significant swelling, oozing, and crusting for 1-2 weeks. Follow post-care instructions carefully.
  • All peels: STRICT sun protection for 4-6 weeks minimum. Hyperpigmentation is the #1 complication, especially in darker skin.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are chemical peels safe for dark skin?

Superficial peels (glycolic, lactic, salicylic) are generally safe for darker skin with experienced providers. Medium and deep peels carry higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) in Fitzpatrick types IV-VI. Mandelic acid and salicylic acid peels are the safest options for darker skin. Always pre-treat and follow strict sun protection.

How many peels do I need?

Superficial: 4-6 sessions for best results, then monthly maintenance. Medium: 2-4 sessions total. Deep: usually 1 treatment. Your dermatologist will customize based on your concerns and skin's response.

Can I do chemical peels at home?

Low-concentration AHAs (glycolic 5-10%, lactic acid 10%) are safe for home use and provide mild exfoliation. However, professional-strength peels (20%+ glycolic, any TCA) should only be performed by trained providers. Improper use can cause burns, scarring, and permanent pigmentation changes.

  1. Soleymani T, et al. "A practical approach to chemical peels." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2018;11(8):21-28.
  2. Monheit GD. "Medium-depth chemical peels." Dermatologic Clinics. 2001;19(3):413-425.
  3. Fischer TC, et al. "Chemical peels in aesthetic dermatology: an update." JEADV. 2010;24(3):281-292.