The Bottom Line
Moisturizers come in three main forms that differ in their oil-to-water ratio. Lotions are the lightest (more water, less oil), creams are medium-weight, and ointments are the heaviest (mostly oil, least water). Ointments provide the strongest barrier protection and are best for very dry skin and eczema. Lotions are best for oily skin and warm climates. Creams are the most versatile — suitable for most skin types year-round.
The Three Forms
Lotions (Lightest)
- Composition: Higher water content, lower oil content. Fluid, pourable consistency.
- Feel: Lightweight, absorbs quickly, non-greasy
- Best for: Oily or combination skin, humid climates, body moisturizing (covers large areas easily), under makeup
- Limitations: May not provide enough moisture for very dry skin. Evaporates faster than creams or ointments.
- Examples: CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion, Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion
Creams (Medium)
- Composition: Balanced oil-to-water ratio. Thicker than lotion, scooped from a jar or squeezed from a tube.
- Feel: Richer, more substantial, moderate absorption time
- Best for: Normal to dry skin, facial moisturizing, most conditions and climates. The most versatile option.
- Limitations: May feel too heavy for very oily skin in summer.
- Examples: CeraVe Moisturizing Cream, Vanicream Moisturizing Cream, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Balm AP+
Ointments (Heaviest)
- Composition: Mostly oil/petroleum, very little water. Greasy, thick consistency.
- Feel: Heavy, occlusive, leaves a visible sheen
- Best for: Very dry skin, eczema, cracked skin, lip protection, protecting healing wounds, overnight intensive treatment
- Advantages: Most effective at preventing water loss. Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) reduces TEWL by up to 99%. Fewest added ingredients — least likely to irritate.
- Limitations: Cosmetically inelegant for daytime facial use. Can trap heat and be uncomfortable in warm weather. May occlude pores in acne-prone individuals.
- Examples: Petroleum jelly (Vaseline), Aquaphor Healing Ointment, CeraVe Healing Ointment
Moisturizer Ingredients Decoded
Regardless of form, moisturizers work through three types of ingredients:
- Humectants (attract water): Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, lactic acid. Draw moisture from the environment and deeper skin into the outer layer.
- Emollients (fill gaps): Ceramides, squalane, fatty acids, dimethicone. Fill in between skin cells, smoothing texture and reducing water loss.
- Occlusives (seal the surface): Petroleum jelly, beeswax, mineral oil, lanolin. Form a physical barrier on the skin surface that prevents water evaporation.
The best moisturizers contain all three types. The "gold standard" ratio for barrier repair mimics natural skin lipids: ceramides (50%) + cholesterol (25%) + fatty acids (15%).
Choosing by Skin Type
- Oily skin: Gel moisturizer or lightweight lotion. Look for "oil-free" and "non-comedogenic."
- Normal skin: Cream (day) and slightly richer cream (night).
- Dry skin: Cream (day) and ointment or thick cream (night).
- Eczema: Ointment (most protective, fewest irritants) or thick cream with ceramides.
- Sensitive skin: Fragrance-free cream or ointment with minimal ingredients.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is petroleum jelly (Vaseline) safe for my face?
Yes. Despite its greasy texture, petroleum jelly is non-comedogenic (won't clog pores) and is one of the least allergenic skincare products available. It's an excellent occlusive for very dry skin, eczema, and overnight barrier repair. Many dermatologists recommend it as the final step in a nighttime routine for dry or compromised skin.
Should I use different moisturizers for morning and night?
Many people benefit from this approach. A lighter lotion or cream in the morning (under sunscreen and makeup) and a richer cream or ointment at night (when the skin is repairing and cosmetic elegance isn't a concern). But if one product works well for both, that's fine too.
How soon after washing should I moisturize?
Within 3 minutes of washing — while skin is still slightly damp. This traps surface water and maximizes hydration. Waiting longer allows water to evaporate, actually making skin drier than before washing (a phenomenon called "drying of the skin by soap").
- Sethi A, et al. "Moisturizers: the slippery road." Indian Journal of Dermatology. 2016;61(3):279-287.
- Draelos ZD. "The science behind skin care: moisturizers." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018;17(2):138-144.
- Meckfessel MH, Brandt S. "The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin." JAAD. 2014;71(1):177-184.