The Bottom Line
Oil cleansing uses the principle of "like dissolves like" — oil-based products dissolve oil-based impurities (sunscreen, makeup, sebum) more effectively and gently than many water-based cleansers. When done properly with non-comedogenic oils and thorough removal, it benefits most skin types — including oily and acne-prone skin. The key is choosing the right oil and following with a water-based cleanser to ensure complete removal.
How to Oil Cleanse
- Apply to dry skin: Dispense a coin-sized amount of cleansing oil or balm onto dry hands and dry face. Water blocks the oil from dissolving impurities.
- Massage gently: Using fingertips, massage in circular motions for 30-60 seconds. Focus on areas with sunscreen, makeup, and congestion.
- Emulsify: Splash a small amount of lukewarm water onto your face. The oil should turn milky (emulsify). Continue massaging briefly.
- Rinse: Rinse with lukewarm water until no residue remains.
- Second cleanse: Follow with a gentle water-based cleanser (gel, cream, or foam) to remove any remaining traces.
Best Oils by Skin Type
- Oily/acne-prone: Jojoba oil (closest to skin sebum, comedogenic rating 2), grapeseed oil (rating 1), hemp seed oil (rating 0)
- Dry skin: Argan oil, marula oil, sweet almond oil (richer, more nourishing)
- Sensitive skin: Sunflower seed oil (strengthens barrier, anti-inflammatory), MCT oil (minimal reactivity)
- All types: Commercial cleansing oils with built-in emulsifiers — the easiest and most reliable option. DHC Deep Cleansing Oil, Kose Softymo, Banila Co Clean It Zero.
Oils to Avoid
- Coconut oil: Comedogenic rating 4/5 — high risk of clogging pores and causing breakouts
- Wheat germ oil: Comedogenic rating 5/5
- Cocoa butter: Comedogenic rating 4/5
- Fragrant essential oils: Can irritate sensitive skin. Avoid lavender, citrus, and peppermint oils directly on the face.
Common Mistakes
- Not removing the oil properly: Residue left on skin can clog pores. Always follow with a water-based cleanser (double cleansing).
- Using comedogenic oils: Coconut oil is the biggest offender — it causes breakouts for many people.
- Using pure oil without emulsifiers: Pure oils don't rinse clean with water. Use a warm damp cloth to remove, or choose commercial cleansing oils that emulsify.
- Over-massaging: Aggressive or prolonged massage (more than 2-3 minutes) can irritate skin. Gentle, brief massage is sufficient.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will oil cleansing help with blackheads?
Many people report improvement in sebaceous filaments (the tiny dark dots on the nose) with regular oil cleansing. The oil dissolves oxidized sebum in pores over time. For best results, combine oil cleansing with regular BHA (salicylic acid) use.
Can I oil cleanse if I have fungal acne?
Most oils feed Malassezia yeast (which causes fungal acne). The exception is MCT oil containing only caprylic and capric triglycerides (C8/C10) — these are malassezia-safe. Avoid oleic acid-rich oils (olive, most plant oils) if you have fungal acne.
Is oil cleansing just for evening?
Primarily yes. The purpose is to remove a day's worth of sunscreen, makeup, and pollution. In the morning, a simple water rinse or gentle cleanser is sufficient — there's nothing oil-based to dissolve.
- Draelos ZD. "The science behind skin care: cleansers." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018;17(1):8-14.
- Dyer JA, et al. "Sunflower seed oil as a barrier repair moisturizer." Pediatric Dermatology. 2012;29(6):736-741.
- Fulton JE Jr, et al. "Comedogenicity of current therapeutic products, cosmetics, and ingredients in the rabbit ear." JAAD. 1984;10(1):96-105.